Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
